Sunday, 12 June 2011

Tuesday 15 Jun 2010 18:02

I picked up my Russian visa today from the application centre in central London! Unfortunately, my amazing levels of organisation let me down yet again, as I forgot the receipt proving I was entitled to pick up Justyna's passport as well. It currently remains, nestled in a part of EC2 that shall remain forever Russia, until she can leave work early enough to pick it up. Sorry team mate. 
Once that's sorted, we can relax in the knowledge that we can at least make it to Mongolia - we (will) have documentation for Russia, Kazakhstan and Mongolia, the 3 key countries which make up the majority of our trip. We still have the Uzbekistan visa to sort, our Letters of Invitation having been delayed until the end of the month, but that gives us time to keep an eye on the deteriorating situation in that part of the world. As much as it is a dream to visit Samarqand and Bukhara, we have to be sensitive to the situation and display a bit of common sense into the bargain. Here's hoping - obviously not just for our sake - that the bloodshed of recent days in Kyrgyzstan comes to an end quickly and peacefully.


The Russian visa application centre is a bit of a let down. It reminded me of Lambeth council customer centre. Go in, take a ticket, wait for your number to be called. No mystique at all. Compare that to the Uzbekistan Embassy in Holland Park, where you're met with the expected surly bloke behind a hatch who refuses to return your passport unless you've brought the correct bank giro counterfoil (there are two. Both identical. Don't even think about trying to fob him off with counterfoil 1 though. He will notice and send you away to come back tomorrow with counterfoil 2). The Russians, by contrast, even contrived to be helpful when faced with my flustered reaction to the news I couldn't pick up Justyna's passport. They were reasonable. They tried their best, offered suggestions, but we couldn't find a way round it. That's not what I signed up for. Where was the surly bureaucracy? Anyway, J managed to collect her passport the following day, and any potential crisis was averted.

The situation in Kyrgyzstan was more concerning for us at that point. Anti-government demonstrations had turned ugly and there was something approaching civil war between ethnic groups kicking off, which seemed to be spreading to Uzbekistan as well. Our original route saw us travelling down through Kazakhstan, into Uzbekistan, across to Kyrgyzstan and then back out into Kazakhstan. Bishkek was a guaranteed no no due to the violence and the fact that the neighbouring countries had closed their borders, but we still hoped to make it down to Uzbekistan for a flying visit to the Silk Road cities of Samarkand and Bukhara. The whole endeavour was scary enough without putting ourselves knowingly into danger though.
We managed to get new tyres on the van. Well, one new tyre. All £15 worth of it. I tried my best to sound like I knew what I was talking about when I visited Zak's Tyres on Ferndale Road in Brixton - after all, I was a man, with a white van, and had it on good authority that the two front tyres were bald to the point of illegality.

This is what I nonchalantly told the 16 year old kid when he asked "what can I do for you boss?". Well, I failed to mention that I'd no idea what I was talking about and was trusting one of Justyna's work colleagues' assessment. "Front two tyres need replacing, not sure about the back two".

"Oh yeah? What's wrong with this one then?", he asked, prodding the front left tyre with his foot.

"Err, nothing. Is there? You tell me"

"Nah, it's fine mate - you only need one on the front right."

"Oh. Thank you for your honesty, young man. I'm going to leave now so you can't see me turn red, and let you get about your masculine business".

Without wishing to spoil any potential cliff-hangers, not only did our second hand tyre last the whole way to Gloucestershire and back that weekend - it is, for all I know, still attached to Genghis as he cruises the mean streets of UB. Not bad value for money.
Saturday 12 Jun 2010 12:01
Cripes. 4 weeks from now we'll be sitting in Highbury Fields with our little Kangoo, ready to embark on the trip of a lifetime.
How's it come round so quick? We signed up in October - we'd loads of time to get organised! Needless to say, the worst laid plans and all that.... I'm trying to stay calm as I work out what is left to do - what we don't manage to sort before departure we will leave to the Gods of fate and adventure to decide.
This weekend sees us off to the country to give the van a run and make use of my sister's farmyard to give it a right good clean. Before that though, we've got to get some new tyres that might see us halfway across the world....or at least Gloucestershire.

Mission Control

Our spare room became a hot bed of all things Rally in the months leading up to departure.

The slick professionalism of our outfit can, I think, be summed up by this shot of our maps. At least we managed to get them sort of joined up and in the right order.

Ukrainian, Russian, Kazakh & Mongolian maps

Mongolian Embassy, Kensington, London.

The Mongolian flag outside the Embassy

Entrance to the Mongolian Consulate

Long Way Round promo shot of Ewan McGregor & Charley Boorman























































The first embassy I went to, which as it turns out (fortuitously) is the recommended first port of call for anyone planning this trip.

I worked on the premise that ultimately, that's where we needed to be, so it made sense to at least have a visa for Mongolia and then we could work out how to get there in the event we hit any snags with other countries. I have to admit to a bit of condescension as well, in that - of all the countries we were passing through - Mongolia might be happiest to have us visit and we would therefore have less trouble getting a visa. As it turned out, of course, we had no problems whatsoever getting the visas we needed for Russia, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and Uzbekistan.

Thankfully my work was very understanding about the whole trip, and the end of May & June saw me criss-crossing London, visiting embassies in plush areas such as Kensington and Holland Park.
Saturday 29 May 2010 14:35
Picked up our lovely, shiny, new Mongolian visas from the embassy yesterday! Can't stop looking at it.... Things are vaguely under control on that front now, and for the first time in about 6 weeks I'm not panicking that we might end up running out of time. We need to go to the Kazakh embassy next week, our Uzbek LOIs should be with us by Friday to allow us to get that visa the following week, and then our Russian visa support is due to arrive in mid-June, leaving us a couple of weeks to get that one sorted. It almost seems like we managed to plan it or something! 
Must take the opportunity to say thanks to David from STANtours, who has been great at quickly responding to my at-times-inane questions. Highly recommended if you need any help obtaining support letters or planning a trip in Central Asia.

DVD Box set bonus material

The following blog post is unpublished on the Charity website, for reasons best known to my 32-year-old self. This, therefore, is the first time it's seen the light of day.


7 weeks to go...

UNPUBLISHED
So, 49 days from now we should be somewhere between Hannover and Gdansk, en route to Justyna's parents for the night.
It's hard to believe the rally is nearly upon us. I'm feeling woefully unprepared, hence sitting in the flat trying to tick things off the list whilst London basks in 28C sunshine outside. Figure we'll be sick of the sun by the time we reach UB in early August, so am not too despondent.
A quick update on how we're getting on:
Fund-raising: Almost two-thirds of the way there now! People have been incredibly generous; every email I've sent out has resulted in another small flurry of donations to the cause. I'm a little concerned that we may not keep up the momentum and hit our target, but plans are afoot for a fund-raising night at a local pub which may help swell the coffers.
Logo: we have an official logo! By an actual graphic designer! I've not uploaded it yet, as I want to give the man his dues in a separate post, but I think it'll make people smile as we pass by. I've found a few companies that make van-signage, so next step is to send them the design and get "brand Steppe by Steppe" shoved in the face of an unsuspecting public.
Vehicle: we're still trying to find the best insurance deal we can and finally bring our wee Kangoo back home. Again, I'll post something separately to thank our generous benefactors; they've been amazing and have hung onto the vehicle until we get the insurance sorted out. But the legal documentation is signed off and it's all approved by Mongolian customs, so it's the one bit I'm not stressing over.
Equipment: not got anything yet. Figure we at least need camping gear and a stove, and there's a deal in Argos at the moment for the lot. Not 100% convinced it's designed for the rigours of the Steppe, but we can't afford to splash out, especially when we're planning on leaving it in UB with the charity. Also need to get jerry cans, water tanks, those grill things for under the wheels if we get stuck in a sand trap, a fire extinguisher and a first aid kit to comply with Russian driving laws. If anyone can help out with sources, it'd be amazing.
Visas: the number one, sleep-depriving, priority. We've got the photos, we've got the forms, we've got the contact in Almaty (the incredibly helpful David from Stantours) who's sorting out our Letters of Invitation for Uzbekistan and Russia - we just haven't got any actual visas yet! I plan to go to the Kazakh Embassy on Tuesday morning to hand over our documents. Just waiting to see if any Travel Insurance companies are willing to give us a discount before signing up (as insurance details are required for the applications)
Funds: err, low. Very low. Hoping that we can borrow some money from the bank to help us on our way. Beyond that, may have to flog a few extraneous body parts. Am (probably naively) assuming that a month on the road in Central Asia shouldn't cost significantly more than a month of living and socialising in central London, so the fact we're taking the time off as paid holiday is a huge bonus. There remains, however, a strong possibility we may end up washing dishes in return for a plate of plov on more than one occasion.
Actually, writing everything down makes it seem like it's more under control than I feared. We got a Russian phrasebook the other day and have an entire wall of the flat covered in maps, so we know roughly where we're going and how long it might take (if the good people at Google Maps are to be believed). I also had a bit of a result from my 'asked-to-remain-anonymous' mobile phone provider, who generously credited my account with £25 towards the cost of texting updates from the road. It's things like that that give us the kick up the arse we need to keep at it when it all seems a little bit over-whelming. I've started having a recurring dream where we get to Mongolia in about 6 days and realise we didn't really see anything en route and forgot to blog from the road. UB looks a lot like rural Northern Ireland, surprisingly.
Anyway, will be posting more regularly from now until departure - people keep asking about the website, so I guess they need something to read on it. For now, I've got hotels to find in Samarkand and a press release to write!
Tuesday 11 May 2010 22:34
Mongolia looks like a piece of cake to navigate! Mind you, roundabouts can be a bit tricky.
Tsangaannuur - Ulaan Baatar: Google directions: Head South - 281km; Turn Right - 1.1km; Take the 2nd Left (go through one roundabout) - 1,462km; Turn Right - 1.2km.











Tsangaannuur - Ulaan Baatar: Google directions: 
Head South - 281km 
Turn Right - 1.1km 
Take the 2nd Left (go through one roundabout) - 1,462km
Turn Right - 1.2km.

Saturday, 11 June 2011

Genghis - the mightiest Kangoo in the West. Or the East, now.

Monday 03 May 2010 12:00
We have wheels! And a dashboard! And seats! And.....well, you get the picture...
We received official confirmation from Mongolia today that our vehicle has been approved! On July 10th, we will purr out of Highbury fields in a pretty dang sexy little white Renault Kangoo van. It's a veritable young pup of a thing - only emerging, blinking, into the world in late 2002 and currently almost as poorly-travelled as its occupants, with a mere 70,000 miles on the clock.
The journey from "souped-up Toyota Hilux Surf" to Kangoo as the wagon of choice for our journey was long, twisting and at times frankly preposterous - much like our eventual route from London to UB will no doubt prove to be. Following the rally meet up in November, we returned enthused and determined to do something huge for charity. Several glasses of Cava later, we'd nailed it: why not take a load of teaching supplies and name ourselves "Ulaan Book Tour" - and do it all in a mobile library?!
It quickly became apparent "why not". Mobile libraries are huge. They only have one seat. They weigh a ton. They cost a fortune. You probably need a special licence to drive one and the thought of trying to get it out of a pothole in the middle of the Gobi desert didn't exactly fill us with confidence.
So we kept planning and searching; licence restrictions meant Justyna could only drive a van up to a certain size, and once we were down to two in the team it was clear we'd need something we could manouevre, and conceivably push out of a sticky situation, between us. We also had to ensure we could meet the customs rules on tax exemption - which eventually led us to the perfect solution: a car derived van.
For those who aren't skilled tradesmen or small business owners, a car-derived van is one with the same front end as a car, but a van bit on the back. You probably could have worked that out yourself. Our theory, such as it goes, is that these things are meant for a bit of abuse by white van men up and down the country - if they can survive being revved around building sites and barged through non-existent gaps in city centre traffic, they can surely cope with a bit of corrugated desert track? Also, the space in the back could potentially provide enough room to curl up for a sleep should fear of the Mongolian Death Worm prove too much for us as we travel through the wilderness.
We've been really lucky to get the van we have, and I have to thank everyone involved in making it happen. Our focus was eBay and trying to fix up a 'spares or repair' Ford Escort or the like - to be presented with the opportunity to take such a mighty French steed is beyond our wildest expectations. We've not yet picked it up but the V5 is off to the DVLA and we're trying to sort insurance out.
Pics will, of course, follow once we can post them. Now, just got to sort some corporate sponsorship to give it that authentic "rally" look.
Anyone paying attention to the dates on the rally site blog posts and with capacity for some basic mental arithmetic will have noticed that we only started fundraising four months before we left for Mongolia. That may seem like quite a short time period to try and raise the money in. You'd be right.

You may also wonder at the lack of mention of a vehicle, equipment, route planning, visas and so on - all essential items to tick off the list to be ready to rock for July the 10th. You may think that the absence of any of these things from updates so far would suggest nothing had been done about them. Again, you'd be spot on.

We signed up for the rally in August 2009, and paid the balance of the entrance fee on my 32nd birthday in October 09. From then until March 2010, all we'd managed to do was lose a team member, decide on a team name and raise £300 sponsorship, as a result of sending of one email and a Facebook post.

Organised, we were not.
So - sponsorship. We were completely stunned by people's generosity. We expected that supporters would perhaps stretch to a tenner if we knew them really well - instead they were stumping up £50 at times! It was overwhelming. It really spurred us on to know everyone was behind us and supporting the charity - suddenly we were doing it for them as well as Go Help and ourselves.
Thursday 25 Mar 2010 19:55
I'm pretty stunned to be sitting here a couple of weeks after launching our fundraising, already almost a third of the way to our target.
We've been dumbfounded by people's generosity - in these still-tough times I never for a second expected people to be stumping up such large sums.
Money has been landing with a meaty 'thunk' in our Justgiving account on a regular basis, and even a couple of people I follow on Twitter have seen fit to swell Go Help's coffers... 
People seem to really want to get behind the cause, and whilst I know no one was actually sponsoring me purely because I was running the Reading Half Marathon on Sunday, the knowledge that people had parted with their hard-earned cash after I approached them prior to the race spurred me to the finish despite my right leg feeling like it was going to fall off.
So a million thanks to our sponsors so far - Julie-Anne & John, new parents Im & Si (who should really be hanging on to their nappy money), Silja, Lizzi, Andrew Mueller (buy his books - they're one of my main inspirations for getting out and seeing the world), Gav & Imogen, Helen & Lee, Jennie and of course, me dear old ma....
No going back now we have people's goodwill and quids behind us! Onwards and sideways!
Tuesday 09 Mar 2010 23:07

I tried to find a suitable Ghostbusters clip, but to no avail...

So imagine, if you will, a lady in '80s glasses whacking a bell and screaming.... "we got onnnnneeeeee!!!!"

Yup, my mass email of everyone in my Hotmail address book (updated c.2005) has resulted in our first sponsorship!
The beautiful, talented, exotic and wonderful Julie-Anne has sponsored us a whopping £25 for the rally! Well, her and her bogan of a husband John, but I have fewer adoring adjectives about him. As if by magic or design, whilst out running last night (18km, baby), just as my blisters started biting, Smashing Pumpkins' "Bullet with Butterfly Wings" came on my Ipod - a song I for some reason always associate with Julie-Anne. It was like fate or some shit. I don't have a 'song' for John, but am determined to get some Acca-Dacca on the play list for the run in his honour.

The rush you get when the first sponsorship comes in is amazing. It makes it all seem worthwhile. So come on, the rest of you! What are you waiting for? Give Go Help money RIGHT NOW!
Sunday 07 Mar 2010 22:35
Inspired and terrified in equal measure by this evening's conference call for the rally participants (and the website announcing it's only 125 days to go), I have finally taken some affirmative action on the fund-raising front.
I've emailed the background to what we're doing to everyone in my hotmail address book - which hasn't been updated since around 2006 and if the number of undeliverable messages I got back are anything to go by, contains approximately 55% non-existent email addresses. Still, you never know, and if anyone sees fit to bung our Justgiving site a couple of quid as a result then it'll all have been worth it.
And if you are reading this as a result of that email - welcome! I promise the quality of the banter will improve exponentially, dependent on the size and number of donations we receive.
Ok, so a brief recap on how we got from the first post to the Charity website - alluding to the fact we had decided we would be called 'Ulaan Book Tour' and obtain a mobile library that three of us would drive to Mongolia - to the team being reduced to two and renamed as 'Steppe by Steppe'.

Ulaan Book Tour is a genius name. Taking a mobile library is - on the face of it - a genius idea. I grew up in a small village in the country with nothing in the way of facilities - a dodgy pub, a chemist and a Spar were what passed for a high street. I spent my childhood making weekly trips to the mobile library; checking out dog-eared copies of the Hardy Boys and Three Investigators.

Mongolia is a rural country - that's the whole attraction. Kids like reading, no matter where they are. The capital is Ulaanbaataar. Thus, in a moment of cava-fuelled inspiration, Lucy, our third team member, came up with the team name and concept.

We loved it. I still do. It was only when we started looking at the logistics of actually doing it that we started to realise that great ideas aren't necessarily that easy to put into practice. Justyna's driving licence doesn't allow her to drive anything bigger than a Transit van. Mobile libraries are not that common on Ebay, and are bloody expensive. On top of all that, it seemed pretty clear that if we got bogged down in sand somewhere in the middle of Mongolia, not only would we not be able to push the bloody thing out, it was unlikely that any vehicle that might pass by would be beefy enough to assist. Tractors aren't that popular on the Steppe, surprisingly. On top of all that, Mongolia has some pretty strict customs regulations these days about what can and can't be imported into the country - a legacy of the rise in popularity of 'banger rallies' over the past 10 years which saw the countryside become a grave yard for inappropriate vehicles which died out in the vast tracts of countryside between the border and the capital, if they got that far at all.

We began looking for a different vehicle, and with it, a different team name.

Around Christmas, it became clear that all was not well with our happy trio. Lucy - my best mate, who I'd discussed doing the trip with for years - had to take the difficult decision to withdraw from the team. A combination of spiralling costs (as it became clear we would need to fund most of the trip ourselves rather than rely on donations), a lack of income whilst away (for someone who is self-employed, taking a month off raises some serious financial considerations) and the prospect of being stuck in a vehicle with my girlfriend and I for 5 weeks all led to the decision. I was gutted but understood. Obviously I hadn't considered what the prospect of being with a couple for that length of time might be like, being part of said couple. I just saw it as me getting to do the trip with my two favourite people. I have to admit, I wouldn't have gone for it had the shoe been on the other foot - none of us knew what stresses lay ahead or how we (and the relationship) would react.

And so it was - Justyna and I blundered forth, putting our faith in 3.5 years without an argument to fulfil, if not a lifelong ambition, one that I in particular had harboured since around 2003 when I first heard about charity rallies. We deliberated over a new team name, initially deciding on One Steppe Beyond only to discover another team had got there before us. A flash of inspiration from Justyna's friend Karolina proved the difference, and Steppe by Steppe was born.
Saturday 06 Feb 2010 12:13

Right. After much deliberation, confusion, soul-searching and general faffing, we've finally done it. We've decided on a team name.
This is our fourth and final name choice. Our original two were based on unrealistic ideas of what vehicle we might take, and our third - borrowing heavily from a classic Madness tune - was ditched following a Google search which revealed another team making the long journey East this summer had already claimed it.
So allow me to introduce Team Steppe By Steppe. Currently we have no vehicle, no sponsorship, no route and no idea where to start. We do, however, have a bloody-minded determination to roll out of Highbury Fields on July 10 and into Ulaan Baatar at some point in early August via some of the most amazing scenery and experiences that the world has left to offer. Bring it on!
Tuesday 17 Nov 2009 21:12

For the last 7 years it has been our dream to explore the mystical lands beyond the Caspian, and thanks to Charity Rallies we now have the starting line in our sights.
Inspired by team member & English teacher, Lucy - who has spent the last few years teaching Central Asian students in London - our plan is to transport educational materials such as textbooks to Mongolia (hence the cunning name).
Plans are in the very early stages at the moment but broadly speaking the idea is:
- establish what is needed in Mongolia
- find a suitable vehicle (obviously a mobile library would be perfect but perhaps not entirely practical!)
- get hold of the items on the wish-list
- drive to Mongolia
simple, right?

And so it begins

It's June the 11th, 2011. 11 long months to the day since we trundled out of Woburn Safari Park at the beginning of our trip of a lifetime to Ulaanbaatar.

It wasn't my intention to take this long to document memories of the trip - I wanted to do it immediately upon returning. But normal life got in the way - plus there were 1800 photos to sift through, edit and upload to Flickr; 150 minutes of video footage to work through and edit; friends to catch up with and a relationship that, having (spoiler alert) survived 5 weeks of trials, tribulations and exhaustion, wouldn't have taken too kindly to my spending more hours in front of a computer.

It's exactly a month to the launch of this year's rally, and the pangs of jealousy are starting to kick in, along with temporarily forgotten memories of how we were feeling at this time last year. May and June 2010 were a blur of lists, stresses about finance, shopping for equipment, hanging around obscure embassies in west London and thinking constantly about everything that needed to be done prior to departure. Of course, things got forgotten about, other things were prioritised but never utilised, but we got there. And back. Just in case you were wondering how all this ended.

It seems appropriate now to begin posting about our adventures, to help ease the frustration that we're not on the journey this year, and to ensure that I get everything written down before I forget any more. For completeness, I'm going to post up every post from the Charity Rallies website as well - providing 'director's commentary' behind the posts as far as I can remember.

So... shall we begin?